North East You Head
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North East You Head

(My First Taste of Kelly Country)

For a bloke that’s getting on in years, although as you can see I could easily be mistaken for a mere lad of eighteen. Okay! Maybe not, but what would make a cove like me get so hung up on the story of Ned Kelly? I’m sure there are many like me who just can’t seem to shake him off. If you feel the same as I do about this great story, and have not visited these places you’ve read about in the books, then I suggest you do as I did; Go visit them! Beveridge, Avenel, Glenrowan, Greta, Beechworth, Jerilderie, Benalla, Mansfield, Stringybark Creek etc etc etc. They’re all waiting for you. To read the story is just not enough. You’ve got to get out there and feel the vibes from these historic places, and take in that fresh country air. Like Ned and the boys; Life is just too short.

A few years ago, I asked my wife if she cared to take a holiday to Victoria. My wife is not as enthusiastic as I am about Ned Kelly, so I took the cowards way out and used my grandchildren who live in Chiltern as the primary reason. Now don’t get me wrong; I dearly wanted to see them, but I also desperately wanted to get amongst that Kelly country. For a moment I thought I’d got away with it, but she looked straight into my twitchy little eyes for several seconds until she could see the beads of sweat starting to form on my forehead. Her silent stare eventually broke me down and I had to come clean. Okay, okay, I do want to see the grand kids, but I wouldn’t mind visiting some of the places where Ned and the boys hung out on the way. Being an understanding and sweet woman, she finally agreed to my plans after promising her things I had no hope in hell of fulfilling.

It was January when we flew into Melbourne. We had chosen January to escape the 38plus heat that was normal for S.E. Q.L.D that time of the year. After loading up the hire car, we were finally on our way. The great thing about the Hume highway is that most of the places I wanted to visit were not too far from the highway. Our first stop had to be Ned’s house in Beveridge where he lived as a child. At first sight my wife thought it was a demolition site with the wire mesh fence surrounding it. It was a shame to see such an historic place allowed to get to such a state. She also made the comment that maybe the fence was to stop souvenir hunters from contributing to the degeneration. Why can’t people just look and take it all in, instead of just taking. The old church/school is not too far away, and you could imagine the Kelly children wandering off across the paddocks for their daily lessons. The vibes had immediately kicked in and the story was coming to life.

Avenel

was our next stop. I had to take a look at the old stone bridge that stretched across Hughes Creek. If Dick Shelton would have only decided to use this bridge on his way to school instead of that makeshift one, he could have avoided a near death experience by drowning. Lucky for Dick, Ned was there to save him. I could see the two boys struggling in the creek below. If you go to Avenel, you must also visit the place where Ned’s father has been laid to rest. His grave in the Avenel cemetery is not as flash as a lot of the others, but to stand at the graveside is a very moving experience.

Does anyone know if Campion’s store is still there?

We dropped into Euroa to see if the National bank that the gang held up was still there. I couldn’t find the bank, but I did walk away with a great shirt of good quality.

Glenrowan

was our next stop and I’d been waiting all morning to get there. I’d read about the fight at Ann Jones inn between the gang and the police, and I could hardly wait to see the location where all the fighting took place. Standing in the middle of the siege site was another very moving experience. As I looked up to where the inn once stood, I could almost hear the screams of the terrified hostages as the police and outlaws blazed away at each other. The excitement I thought I would feel was not there. I could only feel sorrow. The ghosts of the past were all around me. This place I realised was not a place for show, but a place of reflection. This was a sacred site. I must have spent an hour before my wife had to move me on. We then dropped in to see a chap by the name of Gary Dean who ran a souvenir shop called Cobb& Co. I’d heard he was an authority on the Kelly story and was very eager to meet him. At first sight I thought he looked more like Merlin the magician with his long flowing white beard, but on talking to him, I soon found out he knew a hell of a lot more about Ned than me. An hour later I was richer for the conversation, but a hell of a lot poorer in the wallet after spending several hundred dollars on memorabilia. For those who haven’t been to Glenrowan yet, Gary has a great Kelly museum downstairs so don’t forget to have a look. Next door you will also get blown away at Kate’s Cottage run by Chris and Rod Gerrett. It’s not only a great shop for memorabilia but it has an outstanding Kelly museum also. But not satisfied with just a museum, they’ve also built a replica of the house Ned Kelly built for his mother at Greta. If you want to get transported back in time to the 1800s this is a must see. They also have a great range of old and new Kelly books to fill your library. A first edition Australian Son by Max Brown was another must have for me. It’s a great Kelly classic. After a good meal and a cold drink at the pub, we were again on our way north to the town of Beechworth.

I hope most Victorians have taken the time to visit this beautiful historic town, because if you haven’t, you may as well just move up to Queensland. The town has been preserved just as it was back in the 1800s. The Historic Precinct you have got to visit, especially the old courthouse where Ned’s hearing took place before he was sent back to Melbourne to the supreme court and finally to his execution. A small fee or donation is all that was asked to wander through this old courthouse. Everything is as it was when Ned stood in the dock. Just the smell of the original furnishings and books will have you travelling back in time. My wife for some reason felt very uncomfortable as we walked through the different rooms. When she walked in to the female holding cell, she let out a scream and ran outside. When I asked her what had happened, she was as white as a ghost. She told me she had felt a presence standing beside her that she thought was of a woman. When she told of her experience to the volunteer manning the front desk, he informed her she was not the first person to have had the encounter. He believed it to be that of Elizabeth Scott; the first woman to be hanged for murder in Victoria.

After composing herself, we set off for the Burke museum. This has got to be one of the oldest and most comprehensive museums in the country. You could spend hours here looking at the many exhibits, and visiting the replica shops and their wares from a time long gone.

 

If you take a drive around the back streets, you’ll see that many of the houses have been preserved just as they were 130 years ago. The residents and the council should be very proud. There are many old pubs in the town, so if you feel like a drink or something to eat you’ll have quite a choice. The Commercial Hotel, the Hibernian, and the Imperial were just some of the pubs frequented by the Kelly gang. I didn’t find out until just recently that the Vine Hotel in Ford street, which is now some sort of hostel, was the place where Aarron Sherritt’s body was taken after he was shot and killed by Joe Byrne. The things you learn.

Chiltern

was the next stop, and to at last spend some time with our son, his wife, and our grandchildren. We had a walk through the old town, had tea with our family and dropped into bed totally exhausted. I could hardly wait for morning. We were all going to the town of Jerilderie and the scene of the Kelly gangs second spectacular bank robbery. At first light we loaded up the cars and soon headed north. I don’t know if it was just me, but the landscape seemed to change dramatically and the temperature seemed to increase at the same rate. As we travelled that long straight road all I could see was just flat country with scattered trees and not very scenic by a long shot. I could not help but imagine how tough those four young men were. It was bad enough travelling in an air-conditioned car for that period, but to ride it on horseback in a hot February back in 1879 was inconceivable. When we arrived in Jerilderie, the first place we stopped at was the Royal Mail Hotel. It’s changed a lot over the years but you can appreciate the atmosphere as you walk into the bar. My mind again started to wander as I could now see the pub filled with hostages, and Dan Kelly standing on the bar, gun in hand looking over at Steve at the door. I just wished the Bank of N.S.W was still next door instead of a bloody petrol station. Once I got over that, we continued along the well marked Kelly trail through the quiet little town. The courthouse where Dan escorted Mrs. Devine to prepare flowers for the morning service; the police quarters and stables; the telegraph office and many other historic sites are all there for you to take in. The look of intrigue on my granchildrens’ faces was reward enough, as I continued to bluff and stumble my way through the Kelly story, trying earnestly with every word to sound like some seasoned historian. We said our farewells to Jerilderie that afternoon and returned to Chiltern. After another night spent with our family, we said an emotional goodbye and headed south to Mansfield.

 

It was a fair drive, but the scenery was well worth it. Mansfield is the town where the three police who were killed in the shootout with the Kelly gang are buried. You may have seen photographs of the graves of Sgt. Kennedy, Const. Lonigan and Const. Scanlan, but to stand there beside them was yet another very moving experience for me. As you read the inscriptions on the head stones, you can’t help but shed a tear for these unfortunate souls and the loved ones they left behind. That night we stayed at a place called Highton manor built around 1890. It looked more like an old castle than a manor surrounded by its most impressive gardens and lake. After spending time at the cemetery, and watching the silhouette of Highton manor against the light of the full moon, as you can imagine, I slept rather uneasy that night.

The next morning after a decent breakfast, we started off for the Wombat Ranges and to Stringybark Creek where the fatal confrontation between the police and the Kelly gang took place. As you follow the dirt road, you can see it start to narrow and the light becoming ever scarce as the trees close in on you. I don’t mind admitting to you that I was feeling very apprehensive. By the time we arrived at Stringybark Creek, we felt like we were the only living creatures on the face of the planet. It was the strangest experience I have ever encountered. Not one bird could be heard or seen; not one bit of evidence of life. It’s hard for me to explain to you, but as I stood at the Kelly tree, I had a feeling as if unseen eyes were upon me. Think what you want, but as soon as I had taken a look around and a few snaps, I was out of there but quick. The place is remote enough today. Can you imagine what it took to find or even exist in such a place back then? At least we had a road, a car and a mobile phone. What about finding your way on horseback from Greta or Beechworth with no roads or lights to follow? It just amazes me every time I think about it.

On our way back to Melbourne we stopped in at Benalla. I just had to see Kings bookmaker’s shop where Ned had his fight with the four police. We had time to make one more stop at the Benalla Cemetery and to pay our respects to Joe Byrne and Martin Cherry who were both killed at the Glenrowan siege. Joe’s grave looked so lonely as it sat by itself except for the presence of a solitary tree. I felt sad to leave Benalla. I knew it was nearing the end of a great experience. It was the last stop in Kelly country, but at least there was one last place to visit before flying home; The Old Melbourne Gaol.

 

Unlike Stringybark Creek, the place was packed with people, but it didn’t seem to make me feel any more comfortable. The sight of the cold stone walls, the tiny cells and the death masks of those who had met the rope sent chills down my spine. I stood outside the condemned cell and looked across to Ned standing at the gallows and tried to imagine how he would have been feeling. I couldn’t; the thought was too horrific to contemplate and I felt sick to my stomach. At least I knew I could walk away and return to the love of my family. What a tragic end to such a short life. With this in mind we headed for the airport. We had seen some memorable sights on our first visit to Kelly country; sights that will stay with us for a very long time, but we both knew we’d be returning before too long. You just can’t help it. Once you’ve had a taste of Kelly country you just have to keep going back.

To the friendly country people; to the beautiful countryside; to the historic towns; to new found friends and to you Mr. Kelly.

I Thank You!